I start early, merely 25 km from the coast as the crow flies. I’m not a crow, though and bound by earthly roads, which wind this way and that way.
I ride to Figueres, home of a Vauban fortress and the Dalí museum. However, the fortress only opens at ten, while I’m there at 8.30 a.m. and the first free tickets for Dalí are at two p.m. So it’s only outside looks for me, this time.
After busy Figueres I take to small village and field roads. Some cycling paths have been created here, too. There’s a slight difference what the Catalan consider good cycling path quality in comparison to Germany or France. Most of these here are dirt roads, which suits me fine. They lead through the fields and olive, cork oak and pine groves.
After Bisbal d’Emporda the coastal hills start and the quiet road reminds me of the Pyrenees. Then I get down into the jungle of coastal towns that flow into each other. Soon a horror vision starts growing at the back of my head. What if this traffic from hell continues all the way down to Barcelona?
Just after Saint Feliu de Guíxols the coast rises up steeply and with it the road. Suddenly the traffic is gone. The road winds up and down along the coast now for over 15 km and only the occasional tourist beach settlement disturbs the peace.
I end my trip through the Pyrenees from the Atlantic ocean to the Mediterranean just before Tossa de Mar. Tomorrow it’s just 80 km down to Barcelona and the two and a half days in the city.
